A WEEK IN
MOROCCO
Day 1: Marrakech
We arrived in Marrakech around midday. We took a taxi to go to our riad in the heart of the medina (the old city) (tips: bargain the taxi price at the airport). Warm welcome in our riad called Jnane Mogador with a Moroccan tea. A charming riad with a lovely staff. We planed to walk in the souk of Marrakech the afternoon and to discover Moroccan craft objects. (tips if you want to buy a souvenir bargain the price, divide it by 2 or 3). But first we took a fresh orange juice on the place Jemaa el Fna, so sweet and so good! And we had lunch on one of the rooftop restaurant of the place Jemaa El Fna. At the end of the day we came back to our riad where we book a hammam and massage so relaxing and the prices were fair! The night in the middle of the place Jemaa al fna, animation and restaurant take place. We decide to have dinner in one of those restaurant, simple and authentic food.
Day 2: Desert trip : Marrakech - Atlas Mountain - Ait Ben Haddou - Ouarzazate - Dades
It's easier and cheaper to book a desert trip with an agency. It's lot of drive to do in few days! They usually propose you 2, 3 or 4 days in the desert, with 2 days you will not see at all the nice desert dunes so we advise you 3 or 4 days. We personally choose 3 days with Traces Berbères (We booked more than once with them they reply quick and are reliable).
First stop was in the Atlas Mountain, it wasn't snowing but around December you can see snow. We were at 2260m above the sea level the view was amazing. Second stop the village of Ait Ben Haddou, a traditional village made famous by the cinema, use for exemple in Game of Throne. Third stop the city of Ouarzazate, the Moroccan hollywood, with cinema studios, most of the movie related to middle east are made here! Crossing the rose valley where they made rose water, we finally arrive in our hotel in Dades Boulemane. A charming hotel called Jardin de la Source and a lovely staff.
Day 3: Desert trip: Dades - Tinghir - Todra - Merzouga
On the way to the desert of Merzouga but two more stop before. The first stop was in the village of Tinghir, a berber village. We were welcomed by a guide that show us around and the berber rug weaving. (tips: during your trip don't forget to give to the guides and driver a little something at the end). The second stop was in the Todra Gorge. We feel so small in front of this canyon cliff. Morgane went there younger to climb it. In fact it's a nice natural climbing spot!
We arrive before sunset in the dunes of Merzouga, our camels were waiting us for a ride of 1h30. Amazing landscape with the sunset but ride camels is painful after a while! We finally arrived in our camp for the night. The berber guide offered us a shisha, before dinner, and after we were all seating around the fire singing and listening traditional berber song. The sky was full of stars and be careful you can also see shooting stars (tips: in winter is really cold in the desert, so bring warm clothes)
Day 4: Desert trip: Merzouga - Marrakech
The next morning we woke up before sunrise and we did the way back at the back of a pick up! We first drunk a tea in a nomad village. And after we drove to the highest dune, that we climbed (it wasn't easy!) to see an breathtaking view with the sunrise! A magic moment. Back in the pick up, riding the dunes we had trills! And now 9h of drive to come back to Marrakech! A long trip but it was worth it!
Day 5: Marrakech
Last night we change hotel to be in the Palmeraie and discover another side of Marrakech more peaceful. This second hotel is called Murano. The morning we went to the visit the Jardin Majorelle, an amazing place that inspire YSL for it's creation. I advise you to also visite the Museum YSL it's really interesting and well done. Both of them cost around 15£ and we advise you to go early morning because there is always a queue in front!
For lunch we came back in the hotel to enjoy the swimming pool and relax like a real princess and prince life! And the afternoon we did a quad tour. It's an activity that Morgane was always doing young when she was going to Marrakech. And it's so much fun! Daniele love it too! Don't be scared of the speed, and to be dirty because you will eat lot of sand!
Day 6: Essaouira
On the road between Marrakech and Essaouira, look around because you can see goats on argan trees! We arrive for lunch in Essaouira a costal city. We first went to the fish market, authentic place where you can't be picky with the smell and the cleanliness. You can also see all this blue fishermen traditional boats. Next to it you have a square with lot of restaurants that propose you fresh fish from the market on the BBQ, super good and super cheap, we paid 30£ for 4 poeple. After that we walk to the rampart of the medina. We got lost in the street and bought our souvenirs here because so much cheaper than Marrakech. In this relaxing atmosphere we drunk a tea in a cafe under the sunset listening street singer. We really enjoy the simplicity, authenticity and relaxed atmosphere of the city. After having dinner in a rooftop restaurant we come back in our cute riad called Chems Bleu.
Day 7: Oualidia
On the costal road direction Casablanca we stopped for lunch in the city of Oualidia. Famous for its oysters. We advised you to eat in the restaurant L'araignée Gourmande. Since she is kid Morgane was going there, it's a safe bet! After dinner enjoy a walk on the beach. You can also do a little boat tour on this colorful and cute boats. And you can drive to Casablanca.
IN AFRICA
RESTAURANTS
-
NORTH EUROPE
. ICELAND . AMSTERDAM . BRIGHTON . LONDON .
IN AFRICA
- THE TRAVEL TIPS FROM A NOMADIC COUPLE -
NOMADICS AGAPEORNIS
A WEEK ITINERARY
CARIBBEAN COAST - COLOMBIA
We decided to travel on the caribbean coast of Colombia. We departed from Cartagena and visited Santa Marta, the Parc Tayrona, Palomino and Minca. This is a full week trip, if you have more time we advise you to also do the region of the Guarija. We didn’t had time to do it and with covid situation not everything was opened. So we will definitely have to come back later to do it.
To help you to organise the trip don't hesitate to contact www.visitcartagenaco.com
Day 1: Cartagena to Santa Marta : Road and City
We rented a car in Cartagena and drove until Santa Marta. We left around 7:30am and arrived in Santa Marta at 12pm. We took 4 hours and half. One the way we have been stopped 2 times, car checking and paper checking. So don’t take weird things with you and rent your car in a trustable place. We rented our just next to the airport of Cartagena at Turoll. The road landscapes are really nice between Barranquilla and Santa Marta. You will have the sea on one side, the lagoon on the other, and lot of cactus and pink flowers, really pretty! Just before Santa Marta you have a seaside village that live from fishing. You will see little cabin on the water, and sellers on the street that sell fresh fishes. We stop few minutes in the city center of Ciénaga, but nothing crazy so we continue direction Santa Marta. Santa Marta is one of the main city in this region, the city is on the sea and surrounded by mountains. We arrived at our beautiful hotel « casa carolina » that was perfectly localized in the center. There are lot of parking around so it was easy to park the car. It costs around 6000 COP per day and 8000 COP per night.
The afternoon we visited the center of Santa Marta. The main street with all the restaurants is the carrera 3. We had lunch LamArt is was really good, big portion and good price. We continue to walk through the carrera 3 until the cute little park de Los Novios. By the way the night this street is really animated, and crowded, with a really nice atmosphere. Then we turned direction the sea in the calle 20 and we discovered a really nice craft souvenir market. We walked on the pier and the beach of Santa Marta that by the way is not crazy the industrial port is really close. Then we continued to walk and get lost in the streets of the old town of Santa Marta we discovered a lot of beautiful street art. The old town of Santa Marta has a really hippie and hipster vibes. We stopped to see Cathedral Basilica of Santa Marta, that was apparently the first built under ecclesiastical jurisdiction in South America. Then we went back to the hotel to enjoy the pool before going back in the animated carrera 3 to have dinner.
Day 2: Taganga and Park Tayrona : Boat and Beach
We chose to discover one part of the park Tayrona by boat and the other part by walk tomorrow. Direction Tanganga in taxi it costs you around 13000 COP from Santa Marta. Taganga is a fisherman village surrounded by mountains. The landscape is quite amazing. From there on the beach you will find lot of sellers selling day tours to Tayrona. We choose to visit two spots: the morning we will go at the Bahia Cinto and the afternoon at Playa Cristal. The way in boat is quite intense be ready to fly, jump, and be wet. Lot of waves but so much fun if you like little thrills and adventure. You will also see a big part of the coast of Tayrona. Just super beautiful landscapes.
When we arrive in Bahia Cinto is was just paradise. The landscape is amazing and the water is calm and clear. People came here only by boats that make the beach really quiet. We really loved this beach.
Then we went to Playa Cristal to eat because there are restaurants on this beach. Playa Cristal was definitely more crowded. But as soon we arrived we went to the restaurant that was on the top of the mountain. The view was just incredible! The food was typical with fresh fish. Then we went down to the beach and walked until the end of the beach. There, there are corals and many fishes. So we spend our last hour doing some snorkeling. It was incredible.
Then it was time to go back to Taganga, the way back was a bit more quiet than the way in. For this day trip we paid 140 000 COP per person.
Day 3: Park Tayrona : Jungle and Beach
We drove about 45min from Santa Marta to arrive at the last entrance of the Park called El Zaino. We chose this entrance because it was the one where we have to walk the less to arrive to the beach. We parked the car at the entrance, the parking inside was already full at 8:30 AM. Then you have to pay the assurance that is 5000 COP per person, the entrance that is 63000 COP for tourists foreigners ( 28000 for the foreigners that have a Colombian ID ), then you have to pay a minibus that bring you 5km further where walk starts ( that cost 5000 COP per person ).
On the advice of someone our first walk was 10 min direction a look out that was really nice, we couldn’t wait to see more and do the big walk. Back at the main entrance it’s time to start. We have first a walk of around 45min in the mountain/jungle with ups and downs to arrive at your first beach that is Arrecifes. Beautiful landscape but there you can’t swim. Be careful to swim in only authorized beach, many poeple died because they didn’t listen…
Then you have about 1H of walk to arrive to the next beach where you can swim that is called La Piscina. La piscina has a huge beach it was a bit crowded but it’s because it’s one of the rare beach where you can swim. The way between Arrecifes and La piscina is flat, you will just have to walk in the mud and rivers. You will even meet indigenes that sell coconut water on the way.
Then you have to walk 30min more to arrive to the famous beach of Cabo San Juan. The way between La Piscina and Cabo San Juan is super muddy and a bit sporty at one moment you will have to climb a rock with the help of a rope. Beautiful beach but super crowded. We stopped there to eat and rest. Then you can go to the little cabin that has an incredible view!
We just spend the day in the park Tayrona, meaning that we had to don’t leave too late to walk all the way back (more than 2h) and arrive before 5:30pm, the closing time of the Park. Our advice and what for sure we will do next time is to sleep in the Park Tayrona. In Cabo San Juan there are tents that you can rent for the night and I can’t imagine how would look a sunset or sunrise there. So that’s our only regret. That’s why we really advise you to spend a night in the park to enjoy better. Because we felt a bit we just spend our day running and walking and we didn’t really had time to appreciate the place as it should be.
Day 4: Palomino : Rio
Palomino is a little village on the sea side with lay back vibes, really appreciated by the backpackers. We arrive in Palomino around 11am the time for us to check in and have lunch. We booked in the hotel TIKI HUT. Really nice hotel with bamboo cabin for rooms. There are also a pool, a bar, and a good restaurant. Palomino is a little village on the sea side.
In Palomino you have the sea but also the river. And one of the most popular activity here is the tubing down the river so we decided to give it a try this afternoon. We have been pick up by motos at the hotel. We drove us in the mountain on dirt road, with our inner tube on the shoulders. It was so much fun with a bit of thrill sometimes! Then we walked 20 min up and down. On the way we met indigenous people that just finished to harvest coca leaves. Then we arrived at the river we sit on our inner tube and we went down the river. It was really relaxing and the landscape was incredible. Our guide was also amazing he explains us lot of things about the region. It took about 2 hours to arrive at the end of the river, where the sea and the river meet. We finally walked through the beach to come back to the hotel. The tubing was a super activity we really recommend it.
Day 5: Palomino : Beach
We normally wanted to meet an indigenous community today. Unfortunately because of covid, we can meet them. They need to protect themselves. So we decided to enjoy the beach and relax today. Palomino is known for its beaches and for surf. So if you are a passionate of surf take a class in Palomino. You also walked a bit around, bought some souvenir, enjoyed the pool and played pool.
From Palomino you can go up to la Guajira if you decided to do it, we advise you to book at least 3 days to fully enjoy the experience and go with an agency because you need a 4x4 and a guide. This time we didn’t had time to do it but next time we will definitely do it.
Day 6: Minca : Coffee and Cacao Farm
We left Palomino around 8.30am and we arrived at Minca around 10.30am. Minca is a city located in the mountain of the Sierra Nevada. Minca is also called the « capital ecologica ». Many hotels of Minca are located up in the mountain to join them you need a really good 4X4. So the best is to park your car in one of the parking available in the city and to take a 4X4 taxi or a moto taxi if you are alone. Our hotel Mundo Nuevo was at 30min from the center by car. The way up to our hotel cost us 90000 COP.
The hotel Mundo Nuevo is really well localized. First you have an amazing view of the Sierra Nevada. You have a village of indigenous down. One of the kid of this village is always here around playing. The staff was super nice. And the meals were good, a meal cost between 15000 and 25000 COP, the portion are good. And because you are far from the center you will eat there all your stay.
Mundo Nuevo is also at 20 min by walk from a farm of coffee and cacao. That we decided to visit the afternoon. The coffee tour cost 25000 COP per person and it was super interesting. We learned all the process from the plants to the coffee in our cup. The coffee produced there is bio and eco friendly. And of course we tried it! Then we also decided to do the cacao tour that also cost 25000 COP. Also really interesting, we understand the difference between the dark, milk and white chocolate. We made some chocolate, drunk a hot chocolate and also make a facial mask chocolate. We really recommend you to do both because they are really both super interesting and the owner explain it so well!
We come back to the hotel still with our facial cacao mask to enjoy the sunset. The sunset in Minca is just incredible with the view. It’s a moment you can’t miss!
Day 7: Minca : Bird Watch and Waterfall
We woke up early today, to go with a guide watching birds. Departure at 6am for a walk in the nature with binoculars. Our guide were just incredible to find all the birds, he explained us well everything. And we even saw a toucan. That was a bit our goal of the day. The experience cost 30000 COP per person.
We came back to have breakfast and decided to go the Pozo Azul that is natural pools with waterfalls. From our hotel we had a long walk in the nature so be ready. It took us about 2h to arrive there, we crossed rivers, walked in the mud, crossed village, and also got lost many times. The way to Pozo Azul is not really indicated and we have bit forgotten the instructions we gave us at the hotel… oupsi… Pozo Azul is really nice but unfortunately it was super crowded so we couldn’t enjoy that much. You can eat there if you need. Dani went for a swim, I couldn’t it was too cold. And we walked back to our hotel. The way back wasn’t easy at all because this time we were going up and not down. We arrived at the hotel exhausted. But on time for lunch it was 1.30 pm.
The rest of the day we enjoyed the calm and the peacefulness of our hotel. It’s just incredible to be in the middle of the nature with this incredible view. We also enjoy a last sunset there. Such an amazing moment.
Day 8: Minca to Cartagena : Road and Stops
It’s time to go back to Cartagena. From Minca to Cartagena there is a bit less than 5 hours of drive. So we decided to drive all morning and stop for lunch. At lunch time we stopped at Santa Veronica. Little town popular for kite surf. There are lot of restaurant on the beach. We enjoyed a really nice lunch, feet in the sand watching the sea.
Then on the road between Santa Veronica and Cartagena, you can stop to see the pink salt lake Galerazamba. If you want to see the water really pink apparently the best month is March. Because in December it wasn’t pink at all. So double check before because the way to go there is not easy. Wen you arrive there you will have to give something to the locals to enter around 5000 COP.
You can also stop at the volcano Totumo and do a mud bath. In fact inside of the volcano there is mud, and that is apparently really good for your skin. This experience cost around 20000 COP per person. Then from there you just have less than an hour of drive to arrive in Cartagena.
