A WEEK IN
MOROCCO
Day 1: Marrakech
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We arrived in Marrakech around midday. We took a taxi to go to our riad in the heart of the medina (the old city) (tips: bargain the taxi price at the airport). Warm welcome in our riad called Jnane Mogador with a Moroccan tea. A charming riad with a lovely staff. We planed to walk in the souk of Marrakech the afternoon and to discover Moroccan craft objects. (tips if you want to buy a souvenir bargain the price, divide it by 2 or 3). But first we took a fresh orange juice on the place Jemaa el Fna, so sweet and so good! And we had lunch on one of the rooftop restaurant of the place Jemaa El Fna. At the end of the day we came back to our riad where we book a hammam and massage so relaxing and the prices were fair! The night in the middle of the place Jemaa al fna, animation and restaurant take place. We decide to have dinner in one of those restaurant, simple and authentic food.
Day 2: Desert trip : Marrakech - Atlas Mountain - Ait Ben Haddou - Ouarzazate - Dades
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It's easier and cheaper to book a desert trip with an agency. It's lot of drive to do in few days! They usually propose you 2, 3 or 4 days in the desert, with 2 days you will not see at all the nice desert dunes so we advise you 3 or 4 days. We personally choose 3 days with Traces Berbères (We booked more than once with them they reply quick and are reliable).
First stop was in the Atlas Mountain, it wasn't snowing but around December you can see snow. We were at 2260m above the sea level the view was amazing. Second stop the village of Ait Ben Haddou, a traditional village made famous by the cinema, use for exemple in Game of Throne. Third stop the city of Ouarzazate, the Moroccan hollywood, with cinema studios, most of the movie related to middle east are made here! Crossing the rose valley where they made rose water, we finally arrive in our hotel in Dades Boulemane. A charming hotel called Jardin de la Source and a lovely staff.
Day 3: Desert trip: Dades - Tinghir - Todra - Merzouga
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On the way to the desert of Merzouga but two more stop before. The first stop was in the village of Tinghir, a berber village. We were welcomed by a guide that show us around and the berber rug weaving. (tips: during your trip don't forget to give to the guides and driver a little something at the end). The second stop was in the Todra Gorge. We feel so small in front of this canyon cliff. Morgane went there younger to climb it. In fact it's a nice natural climbing spot!
We arrive before sunset in the dunes of Merzouga, our camels were waiting us for a ride of 1h30. Amazing landscape with the sunset but ride camels is painful after a while! We finally arrived in our camp for the night. The berber guide offered us a shisha, before dinner, and after we were all seating around the fire singing and listening traditional berber song. The sky was full of stars and be careful you can also see shooting stars (tips: in winter is really cold in the desert, so bring warm clothes)
Day 4: Desert trip: Merzouga - Marrakech
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The next morning we woke up before sunrise and we did the way back at the back of a pick up! We first drunk a tea in a nomad village. And after we drove to the highest dune, that we climbed (it wasn't easy!) to see an breathtaking view with the sunrise! A magic moment. Back in the pick up, riding the dunes we had trills! And now 9h of drive to come back to Marrakech! A long trip but it was worth it!
Day 5: Marrakech
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Last night we change hotel to be in the Palmeraie and discover another side of Marrakech more peaceful. This second hotel is called Murano. The morning we went to the visit the Jardin Majorelle, an amazing place that inspire YSL for it's creation. I advise you to also visite the Museum YSL it's really interesting and well done. Both of them cost around 15£ and we advise you to go early morning because there is always a queue in front!
For lunch we came back in the hotel to enjoy the swimming pool and relax like a real princess and prince life! And the afternoon we did a quad tour. It's an activity that Morgane was always doing young when she was going to Marrakech. And it's so much fun! Daniele love it too! Don't be scared of the speed, and to be dirty because you will eat lot of sand!
Day 6: Essaouira
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On the road between Marrakech and Essaouira, look around because you can see goats on argan trees! We arrive for lunch in Essaouira a costal city. We first went to the fish market, authentic place where you can't be picky with the smell and the cleanliness. You can also see all this blue fishermen traditional boats. Next to it you have a square with lot of restaurants that propose you fresh fish from the market on the BBQ, super good and super cheap, we paid 30£ for 4 poeple. After that we walk to the rampart of the medina. We got lost in the street and bought our souvenirs here because so much cheaper than Marrakech. In this relaxing atmosphere we drunk a tea in a cafe under the sunset listening street singer. We really enjoy the simplicity, authenticity and relaxed atmosphere of the city. After having dinner in a rooftop restaurant we come back in our cute riad called Chems Bleu.
Day 7: Oualidia
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On the costal road direction Casablanca we stopped for lunch in the city of Oualidia. Famous for its oysters. We advised you to eat in the restaurant L'araignée Gourmande. Since she is kid Morgane was going there, it's a safe bet! After dinner enjoy a walk on the beach. You can also do a little boat tour on this colorful and cute boats. And you can drive to Casablanca.
IN AFRICA
RESTAURANTS
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NORTH EUROPE
. ICELAND . AMSTERDAM . BRIGHTON . LONDON .
IN AFRICA
- THE TRAVEL TIPS FROM A NOMADIC COUPLE -
NOMADICS AGAPEORNIS
We moved to Colombia, in February 2020, yes 3 weeks before Covid lockdown. We arrived in Cartagena thinking it will be easier to find a job for us as it's a super touristic city, but Covid decided differently.
THE VISA
Everyone will think that getting a visa for living in Colombia should be easy but not at all. And the administration is not help full, because the migration and the Canceleria that give you the visa are two different things and you need to managed both. Getting a lawyer to help you with the documents it's helpful but doesn't assure you that you will get your visa. And with the year visa are getting harder and harder to get. Morgane got 3 visas during our stay in Colombia, Daniele got refused 3 visas... We are going to share with you our experience and what we know but every case is different.
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Working Holiday Visa : If you are French, we can apply for a working holiday visa of the consult of Colombia in the country you are living. As only Morgane is French she asked it when we were living in London, it was easy to get, and the consulat was really helpful. This visa allow me to find a job easily because the company didn't had to apply to all the paperwork.
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Visa V Servicio Temporal : The second year Morgane apply to this visa, my company was earning less than 100 X the minimum salary so I couldn't apply to a more permanent visa. The maximum of this visa is 2 years, I apply twice, I believe because it was like a second and third application in education it was easier to get . But after that time I couldn't apply anymore... so it's like how I can do my life here, it's almost impossible except if you get married to a Colombian.
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Visa M Married : This is the easier visa to get in a way and that assure you to stay for a good time without the stress they may refuse my visa, I may have to leave the country in less than a month. We met a lot of poeple that did a "fake wedding" to get the visa. But in the end of 2022 I heard they were getting more strict about it. Obviously we couldn't apply to this one as we were together.
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Visa M worker : You can get this visa, if you have a contract with a big company that earn more than 1000 times the minimum salary. Daniele applied twice to this visa, first one got refused due to the unemployment after Covid and the second time because of an error of stamp made by migration on his passport. In the system he was illegal on the territory and on his passport he was legal on the territory... but as I told you the migration and Canceleria that take care of our visa are two things different and don't communicate between.
Visa M investor : After 2 years and half in Colombia, we were planning to open our business, Dani applied for this visa, he had to invest around 24000 euros, money sent, company builded, but visa refused. Why we don't know and we will never know... ( and we had a lawyer that help us) the problem is that your visa depend of one person that you never meet, so we had to transfer back the money, loosing on the way, close the company, sell our furniture, give back our flat, fin a new family for our cat, Morgane has to resign also, and all of this in 3 weeks...
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If your visa is refused you can't apply again directly you need to wait 6 months, and you can stay with a tourist visa only 6 months on the country that's why we had to leave.
If you look around most of the foreign investors in the country are married with Colombians. And even if it's years you are settle in the country they can refuse your visa when you renew it. For exemple, after 7 years, an Italian citizen got her visa refused, and she had a company and employee... After the first year visa a British investor applied for it's second year, and he really struggle to get it, I can't imagine the stress after you physically invest lot of money and you have to leave.
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We loved so much Colombia, but after this visa refused, for us it was a sign to don't try again, because it's really a lot of stress. And we are really in the idea to open something with our savings but in the conditions it's too instable. So with lot of sadness we left Colombia, and moved in an easier country to get a visa: Panama.
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Ps: If you get your visa, you need to go to migration to get our Cedula de Extranjeria ( Colombian ID ) you will need it in your everyday life. You first need to take an appointment and fill up a document online, then go to migration, pay, and wait 10 days to have your Id.
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THE ACCOMMODATION
Finding an accommodation is not as easy as in Europe. We were in Cartagena, maybe it's different in other city. But don't expect to found something online, you need to walk in the street, enter in the building, asked the security of the building, they always have numbers of landlord that rent appartement, and then contact the landlord to visit and always negociate the rent. You can usually go down of 200K.
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THE JOB
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Obvisouly if you want to work legally you need to get a visa. The minimum salary is low in Colombia, don't expect to earn the same of what you had in Europe. And you need to get a job that a "Colombian can't do". To get a good salary but also to reach the visa.
THE BANK ACCOUNT
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To open a bank account you need a Colombian ID, and then go to the bank to open it, it's quite easy. Bank Interest are ridiculous in Colombia. The main bank are Bancocolombia and Davivienda. We had Davivienda.
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FOOD SHOPPING
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Food shopping is cheap in Colombia. For fruit and veggies, you should go to the market. If you want to found imported products check Carulla, obviously more expensive. Medium range with a large choice you have Exito. And cheap, similar at Lidl you have Ara and D1.
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