A WEEK IN
MOROCCO
Day 1: Marrakech
We arrived in Marrakech around midday. We took a taxi to go to our riad in the heart of the medina (the old city) (tips: bargain the taxi price at the airport). Warm welcome in our riad called Jnane Mogador with a Moroccan tea. A charming riad with a lovely staff. We planed to walk in the souk of Marrakech the afternoon and to discover Moroccan craft objects. (tips if you want to buy a souvenir bargain the price, divide it by 2 or 3). But first we took a fresh orange juice on the place Jemaa el Fna, so sweet and so good! And we had lunch on one of the rooftop restaurant of the place Jemaa El Fna. At the end of the day we came back to our riad where we book a hammam and massage so relaxing and the prices were fair! The night in the middle of the place Jemaa al fna, animation and restaurant take place. We decide to have dinner in one of those restaurant, simple and authentic food.
Day 2: Desert trip : Marrakech - Atlas Mountain - Ait Ben Haddou - Ouarzazate - Dades
It's easier and cheaper to book a desert trip with an agency. It's lot of drive to do in few days! They usually propose you 2, 3 or 4 days in the desert, with 2 days you will not see at all the nice desert dunes so we advise you 3 or 4 days. We personally choose 3 days with Traces Berbères (We booked more than once with them they reply quick and are reliable).
First stop was in the Atlas Mountain, it wasn't snowing but around December you can see snow. We were at 2260m above the sea level the view was amazing. Second stop the village of Ait Ben Haddou, a traditional village made famous by the cinema, use for exemple in Game of Throne. Third stop the city of Ouarzazate, the Moroccan hollywood, with cinema studios, most of the movie related to middle east are made here! Crossing the rose valley where they made rose water, we finally arrive in our hotel in Dades Boulemane. A charming hotel called Jardin de la Source and a lovely staff.
Day 3: Desert trip: Dades - Tinghir - Todra - Merzouga
On the way to the desert of Merzouga but two more stop before. The first stop was in the village of Tinghir, a berber village. We were welcomed by a guide that show us around and the berber rug weaving. (tips: during your trip don't forget to give to the guides and driver a little something at the end). The second stop was in the Todra Gorge. We feel so small in front of this canyon cliff. Morgane went there younger to climb it. In fact it's a nice natural climbing spot!
We arrive before sunset in the dunes of Merzouga, our camels were waiting us for a ride of 1h30. Amazing landscape with the sunset but ride camels is painful after a while! We finally arrived in our camp for the night. The berber guide offered us a shisha, before dinner, and after we were all seating around the fire singing and listening traditional berber song. The sky was full of stars and be careful you can also see shooting stars (tips: in winter is really cold in the desert, so bring warm clothes)
Day 4: Desert trip: Merzouga - Marrakech
The next morning we woke up before sunrise and we did the way back at the back of a pick up! We first drunk a tea in a nomad village. And after we drove to the highest dune, that we climbed (it wasn't easy!) to see an breathtaking view with the sunrise! A magic moment. Back in the pick up, riding the dunes we had trills! And now 9h of drive to come back to Marrakech! A long trip but it was worth it!
Day 5: Marrakech
Last night we change hotel to be in the Palmeraie and discover another side of Marrakech more peaceful. This second hotel is called Murano. The morning we went to the visit the Jardin Majorelle, an amazing place that inspire YSL for it's creation. I advise you to also visite the Museum YSL it's really interesting and well done. Both of them cost around 15£ and we advise you to go early morning because there is always a queue in front!
For lunch we came back in the hotel to enjoy the swimming pool and relax like a real princess and prince life! And the afternoon we did a quad tour. It's an activity that Morgane was always doing young when she was going to Marrakech. And it's so much fun! Daniele love it too! Don't be scared of the speed, and to be dirty because you will eat lot of sand!
Day 6: Essaouira
On the road between Marrakech and Essaouira, look around because you can see goats on argan trees! We arrive for lunch in Essaouira a costal city. We first went to the fish market, authentic place where you can't be picky with the smell and the cleanliness. You can also see all this blue fishermen traditional boats. Next to it you have a square with lot of restaurants that propose you fresh fish from the market on the BBQ, super good and super cheap, we paid 30£ for 4 poeple. After that we walk to the rampart of the medina. We got lost in the street and bought our souvenirs here because so much cheaper than Marrakech. In this relaxing atmosphere we drunk a tea in a cafe under the sunset listening street singer. We really enjoy the simplicity, authenticity and relaxed atmosphere of the city. After having dinner in a rooftop restaurant we come back in our cute riad called Chems Bleu.
Day 7: Oualidia
On the costal road direction Casablanca we stopped for lunch in the city of Oualidia. Famous for its oysters. We advised you to eat in the restaurant L'araignée Gourmande. Since she is kid Morgane was going there, it's a safe bet! After dinner enjoy a walk on the beach. You can also do a little boat tour on this colorful and cute boats. And you can drive to Casablanca.
IN AFRICA
RESTAURANTS
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NORTH EUROPE
. ICELAND . AMSTERDAM . BRIGHTON . LONDON .
IN AFRICA
- THE TRAVEL TIPS FROM A NOMADIC COUPLE -
NOMADICS AGAPEORNIS
TWO WEEKS ITINERARY
QUINTANA ROO & YUCATAN - MEXICO
We traveled the caribbean coast of Mexico. We departed from Cancun and visited Playa del Carmen, Tulum, Bacalar, Valladolid and Holbox. This is a 2 weeks itinirary. We used the bus ADO to move between cities and rent a scooter or a bike to move in each city.
Day 1: Cancun to Playa del Carmen
We arrived around midday in Cancun. From the airport we took ADO bus to go to Playa del Carmen. We arrived around 2 pm in Selina Playa del Carmen. We walked through the 5th avenue did some shopping and eat something. We advise you to stop to Chapultepec. It’s a chain of restaurant in mexico, beers are cheap and they do cheap finger food. Playa del carmen is also known for party so you can also go out.
Day 2 : Cenote Azul and beach
We woke up early this morning to discover our first cenote. We choose to go to cenote Azul, it’s at 20 min by car. The cheaper option is to take a mini bus that do the road Playa del Carmen / Tulum, there are under the bridge at the corner of 50 Avenida Sur and Avenida Benito Juarez, it was around 40 MXN. And the entrance is around 120 MXN. We advise you to go early morning after 10 it’s getting super crowded. You can jump from the rock, and the colors are just incredible.
We came back in Playa del Carmen before lunch. We eat in a food street stand, a super good sandwich behind to the parque portal maya really in the street of Selina hostel. Super good and super cheap.
The afternoon we went to the beach, we advise you to go on the side of playacar, the beach is nicer. We also took our mask and see some fishes.
For the night we went to Soundset beach club to have dinner. It’s always super crowded we advise you to book before or come early. Nice music, nice spot and food was really good. Before going back to the hotel we stopped on a street stand food called marquesitas, perfect for dessert!
Day 3: Isla Cozumel
You took the first ferry direction Isla Cozumel. Please don’t listen any street seller, just go at the official ticket selling point next to the ferry and buy it there. Go in advance because everybody want to take the first ferry ;)
There we rented a scooter with "españa rental". He was super nice and he makes us the best price!
We drive all around the island we started by the est coast and went south. The est coast is the wild one, with not a lot of people on the road and no one on the beach. Then we planned to go to Punta Sur eco park. But it was closed … so don’t go a Sunday.
Next we went to Playa Palancar. It’s a beach club but from there they do snorkeling tour. We negotiate a bit the price and waited other people to join. We discover 3 different snorkling place one was called « el cielo » (the sky) and it was full of starfishes, we discovered corals, fishes, turtles also. It was just amazing! Definitely our best snorkeling spot! You can also dive there it should be amazing too.
Back to the beach club we had lunch and took a beer it was perfect. All this west coast is full of beach club, we stopped to see others but this one was the best. Around 5 pm we gave back the scooter, walk in the cute city center and took the ferry back to Playa del Carmen.
Day 4 : Tulum : Cenote Taak Bi Ha and beach
We took a mini bus (under the bridge at the corner of 50 Avenida Sur and Avenida Benito Juarez) direction Tulum. We took an early one leave our stuff at the hotel and pick up a scooter that we rented at "The glad's bike rental" .
And direction the cenote Taak Bi Ha. This cenote is underground. It costs 300 MXN. The water was super clear, and it was nice because it wasn’t that crowded.
After the cenote we went back to the hotel. We choose a hotel on the beach it’s a bit more expensive but so worth it! We went to Selina. The afternoon we relax and enjoy the pool and the beach.
The night we went to eat where it doesn’t cost an arm in the area. We choose Tulumunchies, it’s a place with different food truck, the pizza was super good.
Day 5: Tulum : Gran cenote , Zona Arqueológica of Tulum and Laguna Kaan Luum
At the opening we went to Gran Cenote. We wanted also to go to Calavera but since covid prices doubled ! So we decided to do only one. It was 300 MXN. In Gran Cenote there are littles turtles in the water. It’s a beautiful cenote but it was to crowded, staff were not super friendly, it was to commercial so we were disappointed and didn’t say a long time.
Then we went to the Zona Arqueológica of Tulum. There are 2 entrances, we advise you to take the one that is next to the beach. So much less people. You also need to enter before 10am because after it starts to be crowded. And don’t listen any seller around. You don’t need VIP entrance, the entrance is quick it was no queue and it costs only 80 MXN. The site is beautiful and the landscape also. It was breathtaking we really loved it! Sadly since covid the beach down is closed … So when we went out we went to the beach that is just at the entrance to refresh ourselves !
Then we drove to the city center to have lunch. We eat at Sabor de Mar. It was super good and fresh! Highly recommended !
Then went to the Laguna Kaan Luum. The entrance is 300 MXN. It’s a really nice place and not that crowded like the cenote. Not lot of tourists and mainly mexicains. We really like it because it really change from the cenote and the beach.
Day 6: Sian Kaan
Sian Kaan is a huge natural reserve. Usually they propose you one tour more in the inside, and another tour on the coast. We choose the second one because we wanted to see more animals. They picked us up in Tulum, and they drove us to the point where you can take the boat. Before taking the boat we saw a crocodile, then we went through the mangrove, saw dolphins and an island with lot of birds. Then we changed boat to go to the sea, there we saw a turtle and did some snorkeling. We finally eat in Punta Allen and visit the village. The tour is a bit expensive but so worth it!
Day 7: Bacalar : Laguna de los 7 colores
We woke up early took an ADO bus for Bacalar. It’s about 3h of bus. We book a super hotel called "Casa Umay". The room was super nice, you have a kitchen and it’s well localized.
Then we walked in direction of the laguna, we saw the main place and the castle, and just down the castle you have a guy that sell you boat tour on the Laguna for only 250 MXN. We waited for others to join and we discover this beautiful Laguna. The color of the water is just incredible. We saw different cenote, stopped to swim and I have beer, and finish with the canal of the pirates. It was a really nice tour.
Day 8 : Bacalar : Los rapidos & Laguna de los 7 colores
The Rapidos open only at 10am but be there a bit before because it was a queue in front of the door. Last night we rented a scooter to go there is morning and we could pass in front of all the car and arrive the first to take photos. The entrance is 150 MXN. The landscape is just incredible, you can leave yourself going down the river. We also rented a kayak for an hour to see a bit further it was really nice. There is a restaurant there so we ate there.
End of the day we went to a restaurant on the Laguna enjoy a beer for sunset and a good meal with this beautiful view.
Day 9 : Valladolid
We took a morning ADO bus direction Valladolid. We had to change in Tulum, it took us 4 / 5h of bus we had lunch in Tulum next to the station.
We arrived around 1pm in Valladolid. We went to the hotel, and walked in the city the afternoon. It’s a really cute town. You should see the parque principal and walk through the street that goes to the parque Sisal. You can also go to the cenote Zaci that is in the center but when we were there it was closed.
The night we eat in a typical and popular restaurant! It was simple, cheap and super good! Highly recommended if you are looking for something authentic. It’s called restaurant La Terazza. And you absolutely need to visit girl toilets ;)
Day 10 : Chichen Itza - Cenote ik kil
We rented a scooter with "Experiencias Yucatan", super nice and we make us the best price !
We had to drive an hour go to Chichen Itza. You absolutely need to go at the opening time. After 10am you have all the tourists buses that are coming ! The entrance of Chichen Itza is a bit expensive but it’s a must-do.
Then we stopped at the cenote Ik kil, it’s at only 15 min from Chichen Itza. It’s a beautiful cenote but at that time it was a bit crowded.
The afternoon we relax and walked in the city
The night we ate in a food court next the the parque Principal, we advise you to take a sharing platter in the restaurant Zaci Hual. It was super good!
Day 11 : Cenote Oxman, Cenote Suytun and direction Holbox
We woke up early to arrive the first at Cenote Oxman we where there before 8am, and you could have the cenote for us alone for few minutes it was really nice. We really love the cenote Oxman. You have a kind of Tarzan line to jump in the water it’s amazing. The place also it’s super cute with this beautiful yellow hacienda! Definitely one of your favorite cenote. The entrance was 150 MXN.
Then we went to the famous Cenote Syutun. The cenote that you saw everywhere on Instagram and there is a queue to take THE photo on the platform. If it wasn’t to take a photo it’s not a cenote we will have go. The photo taken is just incredible but the cenote is not incredible. The entrance cost 150 MXN.
Then we needed to be at 13 pm to the bus station ADO to take the bus to Chiquila. From Chiquila we took a ferry to Holbox. The ferry is every 30 min and it costs 220MXN per person.
We arrive in Holbox, check in, in our cute hotel called Chujuk and went for a beer on the beach to watch sunset ! Then we ate a sandwich in the little stand you have around the main place.
Day 12 : Holbox : Punta Coco & Punta Mosquito
Early morning we went by bike ( that we rented yesterday ) to Punta Coco, hoping to see flamingos, but apparently it wasn’t the season. But it was the mosquito season we could feel them well.
Then we decided to go to the other side to Punta Mosquito, we were we walked in large sandbar in the middle of the sea. It was really nice.
We came back next to the main square to have lunch. It was really good.
The afternoon we relaxed, enjoyed the pool and the beach.
For sunset time we went to the beach restaurant La Playa De Ñaña. We had a beer, some sushis, an amazing view and a good music! Highly recommended!
Day 13 : Holbox to Cancun
Time to go back to Cancun. Around 10am, we took the ferry to chiquila and then the ADO bus to Cancun.
We checked in to Selina of Cancun.
The afternoon we went in the Zona Hotelera of Cancun, except the mall that Morgane enjoy to do some shopping, we didn’t really enjoy all those big resorts in front of the beach. The beach is nice with white sand and turquoise water, but those big resorts break all the charm…
Day 14 : Isla Mujeres
Early morning we went to take to ferry to go to Isla Mujeres. It was the end of the trip so budget was tight, this time we rented bikes and not a scooter to do the round of the island. It was not easy easy but possible, we could do it!
We first started by the beaches that are on the North Side! So pretty! And it was no one the morning so it was perfect.
Then we went down to the south of the island by the East coast. Beautiful landscapes, a bit hot in bike, but when we arrived at Punta Sur it was worth it.
In Punta Sur you have a free part, and a part you have to pay. We stay on the free part and we could enjoy the view. We even saw dolphins it was amazing. The color of the water on the West side was incredible. We wanted to swim in it but it was hard to find a way to go down.
We finally find a little path to go down to the beach. ( without going in a beach club ) We enjoy a big part of the afternoon there.
Then we bike back to the ferry by the West coast. We got lost at one moment but we finally find the way.
Day 15 : Cancun airport
That’s it, it's the end of our mexican trip! Time to take the bus direction the airport!