A WEEK IN
MOROCCO
Day 1: Marrakech
We arrived in Marrakech around midday. We took a taxi to go to our riad in the heart of the medina (the old city) (tips: bargain the taxi price at the airport). Warm welcome in our riad called Jnane Mogador with a Moroccan tea. A charming riad with a lovely staff. We planed to walk in the souk of Marrakech the afternoon and to discover Moroccan craft objects. (tips if you want to buy a souvenir bargain the price, divide it by 2 or 3). But first we took a fresh orange juice on the place Jemaa el Fna, so sweet and so good! And we had lunch on one of the rooftop restaurant of the place Jemaa El Fna. At the end of the day we came back to our riad where we book a hammam and massage so relaxing and the prices were fair! The night in the middle of the place Jemaa al fna, animation and restaurant take place. We decide to have dinner in one of those restaurant, simple and authentic food.
Day 2: Desert trip : Marrakech - Atlas Mountain - Ait Ben Haddou - Ouarzazate - Dades
It's easier and cheaper to book a desert trip with an agency. It's lot of drive to do in few days! They usually propose you 2, 3 or 4 days in the desert, with 2 days you will not see at all the nice desert dunes so we advise you 3 or 4 days. We personally choose 3 days with Traces Berbères (We booked more than once with them they reply quick and are reliable).
First stop was in the Atlas Mountain, it wasn't snowing but around December you can see snow. We were at 2260m above the sea level the view was amazing. Second stop the village of Ait Ben Haddou, a traditional village made famous by the cinema, use for exemple in Game of Throne. Third stop the city of Ouarzazate, the Moroccan hollywood, with cinema studios, most of the movie related to middle east are made here! Crossing the rose valley where they made rose water, we finally arrive in our hotel in Dades Boulemane. A charming hotel called Jardin de la Source and a lovely staff.
Day 3: Desert trip: Dades - Tinghir - Todra - Merzouga
On the way to the desert of Merzouga but two more stop before. The first stop was in the village of Tinghir, a berber village. We were welcomed by a guide that show us around and the berber rug weaving. (tips: during your trip don't forget to give to the guides and driver a little something at the end). The second stop was in the Todra Gorge. We feel so small in front of this canyon cliff. Morgane went there younger to climb it. In fact it's a nice natural climbing spot!
We arrive before sunset in the dunes of Merzouga, our camels were waiting us for a ride of 1h30. Amazing landscape with the sunset but ride camels is painful after a while! We finally arrived in our camp for the night. The berber guide offered us a shisha, before dinner, and after we were all seating around the fire singing and listening traditional berber song. The sky was full of stars and be careful you can also see shooting stars (tips: in winter is really cold in the desert, so bring warm clothes)
Day 4: Desert trip: Merzouga - Marrakech
The next morning we woke up before sunrise and we did the way back at the back of a pick up! We first drunk a tea in a nomad village. And after we drove to the highest dune, that we climbed (it wasn't easy!) to see an breathtaking view with the sunrise! A magic moment. Back in the pick up, riding the dunes we had trills! And now 9h of drive to come back to Marrakech! A long trip but it was worth it!
Day 5: Marrakech
Last night we change hotel to be in the Palmeraie and discover another side of Marrakech more peaceful. This second hotel is called Murano. The morning we went to the visit the Jardin Majorelle, an amazing place that inspire YSL for it's creation. I advise you to also visite the Museum YSL it's really interesting and well done. Both of them cost around 15£ and we advise you to go early morning because there is always a queue in front!
For lunch we came back in the hotel to enjoy the swimming pool and relax like a real princess and prince life! And the afternoon we did a quad tour. It's an activity that Morgane was always doing young when she was going to Marrakech. And it's so much fun! Daniele love it too! Don't be scared of the speed, and to be dirty because you will eat lot of sand!
Day 6: Essaouira
On the road between Marrakech and Essaouira, look around because you can see goats on argan trees! We arrive for lunch in Essaouira a costal city. We first went to the fish market, authentic place where you can't be picky with the smell and the cleanliness. You can also see all this blue fishermen traditional boats. Next to it you have a square with lot of restaurants that propose you fresh fish from the market on the BBQ, super good and super cheap, we paid 30£ for 4 poeple. After that we walk to the rampart of the medina. We got lost in the street and bought our souvenirs here because so much cheaper than Marrakech. In this relaxing atmosphere we drunk a tea in a cafe under the sunset listening street singer. We really enjoy the simplicity, authenticity and relaxed atmosphere of the city. After having dinner in a rooftop restaurant we come back in our cute riad called Chems Bleu.
Day 7: Oualidia
On the costal road direction Casablanca we stopped for lunch in the city of Oualidia. Famous for its oysters. We advised you to eat in the restaurant L'araignée Gourmande. Since she is kid Morgane was going there, it's a safe bet! After dinner enjoy a walk on the beach. You can also do a little boat tour on this colorful and cute boats. And you can drive to Casablanca.
IN AFRICA
RESTAURANTS
-
NORTH EUROPE
. ICELAND . AMSTERDAM . BRIGHTON . LONDON .
IN AFRICA
- THE TRAVEL TIPS FROM A NOMADIC COUPLE -
NOMADICS AGAPEORNIS
10 THINGS TO DO IN
CARTAGENA
After living more than 2 years in Cartagena, we learned: to always asked the price before ( taxi, food, drinks, ... ), to take it easy, to don't wear shiny jewlery and that Cartagena is one of the most expensive city of Colombia. Colombian coast has a afro-caribbean culture really different from the inside of Colombia. Here the most important things to see in Cartagena.
1- Walk in the Centro Historico. The architecture of the historic center of Cartagena is incredible. You will definitely fall in love with this colonial and colorful architecture. To visit the historic center you can do a free walking tour they usually meet at the Torre de Reloj and you have to give a tips ( usually around 30000 to 40000 COP ). If you want to do it by yourself here a list of places you should go:
- Plaza de los coches, where there is the famous Torre de Reloj and the portal de los dulces ( dulces : traditional treats )
- Plaza de Bolivar, where there is a little park and in front the beautiful cathedral de Santa Catalina
- Plaza Santo Domingo, where there is a church and the famous sculpture of Botero, we said that you should touch it to make your wishes come true.
- Plaza Fernando de Madrid, animated square at the end of the day, where there is the only church with air conditioned, always booked for weeding
- Plaza San Diego, animated square with nice restaurants around and you have always a mini market where you can buy souvenir and bracelet.
- La Serrezuala was an arene for bulls show, then a theater and nowadays a luxury mall. The most incredible is that they kept the wooden architecture.
- Plaza de la Bovedas, the Bovedas was a military building where they storaged munitions, they used it also as a prison and also served as a liquor industry. Nowadays you can find souvenir and craftsmanship shops.
2. Sunset on city walls. Around 5pm you should do a walk on the city walls. And watch the sunset from there. You can have a drink in the famous cafe del mar, it’s quite expensive for what is it, and the cocktail are not good but it’s great spot. Or there are many street seller that can sell you a beer.
3. Discover Getsemani. Getsemani is the neighborhood next to the centro historico, in the past it was the low class neighborhood, it’s also the first one to be free during the colonisation. They are really proud of being from Getsemani. Nowadays it’s a colorful neighborhood, full of life and street arts, appreciated by backpackers because cheaper than the centro historico. The night the main square is full of people, you can buy a beer in the little shop around, eat from the many food truck you have and watch the street shows.
Let me share with you few streets you need to see and perfect for you instagram photos: calle 29, calle 27, calle 28, calle de San Juan, Carrera 10.
Our favorite restaurant is in gestsemani, it’s called blue lagoon and they do the best ceviche at the best price, highly recommended! Another place that is nice to have a beer and watch the sunset is the food truck of Isabel.
4. Go to the mercado Bazurto. The market of Bazurto is located in the south of the city. You can go by yourself or go with a tour. If you go by yourself take a taxi to go there, wear simple clothes, no jewelry, … more discret you are better it is. This market is huge you can find vegetable, fruit, meat, fish, … and you can eat there of cheap. It’s the real Cartagena !
5. Go to an island . The famous day tour in Cartagena is going on an island. Here the 3 types of islands you have :
- Isla Baru, Baru is a public beach where you have white sand and turquoise water. But being a public beach you have lot of sellers, noise, … it’s not super calm but it’s cheap. Be careful there don’t accept any things without asking the price before, if they say it’s a free sample, there it doesn’t exist, they will ask you to pay. If you want something more quiet you can book at mambo beach that is on the main beach or eco baru beach that is more far but more quiet.
Aslo in isla Baru one of the main activity is that you can see planktons bioluminescents, it was a nice experience but don’t expect a super bright blue light as you can see on the photos.
- Islas del Rosario, everything is private there you will need to book a tour to go there. You can choose a tour where you stay at a beach club for the day. If it’s the case we advise you Islabela.
Or you can book a tour where you see more than one island. Usually the tour will show you the isla Rosario and then you will finish at Isla Baru.
- Islas San Bernardo, a bit less touristic and more far from Cartagena, we advise you to a least spend a night. Our favorite island to spend the night is isla Palma at Mistica.
- Rent a boat. If you are a group, we advise you to rent a boat, you can see the maximum : isla del Rosario, Cholon and Baru. For a small boat of 8 persons with captain it will cost you around 1 000 000 COP.
6. Discover the mangroves . In the north of Cartegena you have a laguna with mangroves. We advise you to book an ecotour. We book our with visitcartagenaco. What we loved with this tour is that it’s different from all the tour you can find here, and way less touristic. From the popular neighborhood of La Boquilla you will board on a pirogue, see many birds and mangroves. Them we stopped in a hidden beach where we had lunch and went back by pirogue. It’s another side of Cartagena way more quiet and natural.
7. Try the street food. In the street you will find many street food sellers. You absolutely need to try : arepa de huevo ( the most typical) , patacon ( fried plantain ) , green mango with salt and lemon (our favourite), a fresh coconut, carimanola ( fried yuca), grilled arepa con queso ( that is fat ), …
8. Visit the Castillo San felipe. We advise you to do it at the end of the day because it’s less hot. The entrance 40 000 COP, it’s a monument of Cartagena, you walk inside tunnels and you will have a nice view of the city.
9. Discover the covent de la Popa. The covent de la Popa is at the top of the hill of la Popa. We advise you take a taxi to go there and ask him to wait you to after bring you back down. From there you can visit the covent but the most incredible is the view. You have an incredible view of the city.
10. Try la Mojarra. The typical dish of the cost. La mojarra is a fish that they fried and they serve it with patacon, coconut rice and salad. You will always find it on the beach restaurant.
